Keep your lungs healthy. If you work in carpentry now, you will know that vacuum cleaners are needed no matter how small a woodworking shop is. Many people say that the core of carpentry is saw, and some people say that it is their router, band saw, and planing bed. . . and so on. Anyway, one thing is for sure, the lungs in every wood shop are vacuum cleaners. Most chips are heavy enough to fall on the floor when you make chips, but when you have wood dust or other kind of debris, these pieces will be in the air you breathe These tiny wood particles can easily enter your lungs and pose a serious health hazard. There are a lot of ways to protect yourself right now, just like wearing a good dust cover ( They don\'t come, but good. Or cheap throw Air respirator ( It\'s not a very safe way to go, but it\'s better than not). Then you can install an air filter on the ceiling to purify the air in the store ( Dust must pass through your face before arriving, so these are good after work) In the end, you may be a complex or simple dust collector system ( If you can afford it, they are very good in a way). No matter how good your dust removal effect is, there is still ambient dust escaping from it, especially if you are polishing or wiring, you need something that is easy to use, portable, absorb dust from your tools. This is where the store vacuum comes in handy. The problem with the workshop vacuum cleaner is that if you connect them directly to the tool, it will clog the dust in 10 minutes and it is not very easy to empty often, even if you force it to collect more, it will burn out too. On top of that, another option is to have an intermediate system between your tool and the vacuum, which is the Cyclone bin. The cyclone tub will collect 99% of the dust and throw it into the bucket below to make your vacuum barely dusty and clean. My cyclone dust bucket is cheap and efficient. I only spent less than 20 euros (about 25 U. S. dollars) It was easy to build on the weekend so how did I build it. Bill of Materials: 1 vacuum cleaner (1600 watt +) 20L1 metal paint plastic bucket (tin) The electrician\'s plastic pipe is about 30 cm (paint bucket 20L1 plastic funnel 1)12\") Long2 pipe joint s1 90 degree pipe elbow installation 1 extra vacuum flexible hose4 Bolt, nut and washers8 self-adhesive ironing plate 5 min epoxy glue some sort of filler ( Bog or similar buildings) 2 pieces of plywood or medium fiber board of 30X18mm (12X12X3/4\") The cyclone system consists of two stages. The first stage is the paint plastic bucket with top lighting, accessories and funnel. The second phase is metal (tin) The paint bucket attached to the bottom of the plastic bucket will be occupied by dust and waste. Before purchasing any accessories, please make sure to check the end of the vacuum hose and purchase the appropriate diameter fitting ( Not all vacuum cleaners have hoses and ends of the same diameter). Light the top of the plastic and open a hole in its center, the same diameter as your pipe joint ( Here is the long tube) There is a hole on the side of the cover ( This is where the elbow accessories will go). Epoxy the first connector enters half of the center hole of the plastic top cover Here is the long tube ( If you have PVC glue or epoxy, connect the two with PVC glue) , Just make sure that the pipe joint is perpendicular to the cover. You can cut the long tube a little short, if you have any dust in your vacuum, after the first trial run, usually it will go deep into us with the placement of the wood ring. The epoxy resin second pipe joint enters the side hole in the same half way, with equal bumps on both sides. After drying, install the 90 degree elbow fitting to its lower side, which points parallel to the wall of the plastic bucket (side). This will create a cyclone rotation cycle on the incoming dust. Make sure there is no opening- If so, feel it with some epoxy or silicon. Optional modifications: If the plastic top cover is as soft as mine, I add another two mid-fiber plate circles of about 22 cm (8. 5\") 6mm in diameter (1\\8\") The thickness that supports it. The wooden circle was turned over and over under the plastic cover, and I used 4 bolts/nuts/washers to thicken between them. This also gives me extra strength and advantage, in the case that I want to add two more 90 degree elbow fittings to the top cover of the plastic bucket and run a longer PVC pipe, thereby minimizing the use of flexible hoses and increasing overall flow and pressure drop. In order to install the funnel, you need to first cut out a wooden disc/ring from one of the two pieces of wood. The wooden ring should be tight in the plastic bucket ( The inner plate that is kept from this cut, we will use it at the back). The outer diameter of the disc should be tightly placed around half of the barrel, and the inner diameter should be wide enough so that the funnel can be placed on top. I cut the ring close to the line on the tool stand\'s inverted clamp saw, and then used my round Polish clamp attachment, which I made into a perfect circle. Dry cleaning is required for everything. Don\'t finish this stage until you finish Phase 2. After the second phase, we put the wood ring into the plastic bucket ( About half or deeper) In this way, the end of the funnel will protrude from the metal top cover hole. I screw the wood ring in place from the outside with 8 self-adhesive screws. In my design, I cut the funnel short so that its end holes are not very narrow ( The dust below is easier to run) About 4 cm in diameter, then I took out a tube with epoxy. Now is the time when things get bad. Then I used the edge of the wood ring to epoxy the edge of the funnel, and then I added a filler ( Use builder bog if you can get it) Use the barrel wall to smooth the ring on the slope so that the dust does not fall on the edge of the ring, but slides down. Since I couldn\'t find a builder here, I used the best thing I could find, which is the Polyester filler that can stick to the wood and plastic surfaces. Except for its ugly color (black) And the chaos of spreading (use gloves) Besides that, it is OK. Note: If I\'m going to do this again, I\'ll use a less hardened agent than the suggested ratio to give me more time to shape it and make it smooth, even if it takes longer to dry. The dry Polyester filler gave me at least a rough surface, a soft white filler layer on it, and I made it smooth with a damp cloth, so that dust can easily fall into the funnel. * Another idea is, guys, people tell me that it\'s hard for them to find a funnel big enough and ask me where to get my funnel. . . It\'s easy to find one in my country, but not there. So depending on the diameter of your bucket, here\'s another idea that you can go to any auto parts store and buy an emergency Street/traffic cone ( Cones with white and orange stripes) And reduce it to your diameter size and length ( They have all kinds of sizes). . . It will be good too. The plastic packaging has to be placed on the metal barrel and locked in place so how will we do that. We need 2 round plywood or medium fiber plates that connect the top cover of the support plastic bucket and metal bucket together. We cut two discs, about 4/5 of the diameter of the bottom of the plastic bucket ( We already have the one left by funnel ring cutting) So all you need to do is cut one. The accuracy here is not very important, so you can cut the disk with a clamp/military knife saw. Each disc has a center hole of about 45-50mm (2\") In diameter, I made it with a hole saw. We will use the first circle to sit at the bottom of the plastic bucket and the other under the cover of the metal bucket. Since the two discs have the same center hole opening, we should open the same hole opening at the bottom of the plastic bucket, one to the upper cover of the metal bucket, so that the funnel can pass through them. Insert the first disc into the bottom of the plastic bucket and put everything together -- Plastic Barrel on top of metal- Another wooden plate is under the cover of the metal barrel. Bolt them together using 4 bolts, nuts and washers. Now we can connect the two buckets between them. Now I can put the plastic bucket on the metal bucket and fix the plastic bucket with the metal bucket with the standard metal bucket. Install the vacuum hose on the center connecting pipe and the secondary hose ( I found one from the vacuum I threw away) This will suck the dust onto the side connector pipe and open the vacuum for the cyclone to run. All the dust falls on the metal barrel, keeping your vacuum clean and running continuously. Remember, when you empty the dust from the metal bucket and prepare some masks to protect yourself, after all, we don\'t want to breathe these nasty things at the end.